Old Dubai

Beyond the glittering skyscrapers and mega-malls lies the soul of Dubai in its historic districts. While many visitors are drawn to the city's futuristic landmarks, I found that exploring Old Dubai—particularly the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood, Dubai Creek, and the traditional souks—offered the most authentic and culturally rich experiences of my entire trip. If you're interested in understanding Dubai's transformation from a modest fishing village to a global metropolis, this area is an absolute must-visit.

Understanding Old Dubai

Dubai's history dates back to the early 18th century when it was established as a small fishing village. The areas around Dubai Creek—Deira on the northeastern side and Bur Dubai on the southwestern side—formed the commercial heart of the city and were instrumental in establishing Dubai as a trading port.

Today, these historic neighborhoods provide a fascinating glimpse into the city's heritage, with their traditional architecture, bustling souks (markets), and cultural landmarks. The contrast between Old Dubai and the ultra-modern downtown areas offers visitors a complete picture of the city's remarkable journey.

Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood (Al Bastakiya)

My exploration of Old Dubai began in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood, also known as Al Bastakiya. This well-preserved heritage area dates back to the late 19th century and was originally home to wealthy Persian merchants who came from the region of Bastak in Iran, hence its alternative name.

What immediately struck me about Al Fahidi was its stark contrast to the rest of Dubai. Here, narrow sikkas (alleyways) wind between traditional buildings made of coral, gypsum, and palm wood. The most distinctive architectural features are the wind towers (barjeel) that crown many buildings—an ingenious early form of air conditioning that channeled wind into the homes below.

Walking through Al Fahidi feels like stepping back in time. The district has been thoughtfully restored and converted into a cultural hub with museums, art galleries, cafés, and boutique hotels. Some highlights include:

  • Dubai Museum: Housed in the Al Fahidi Fort (built in 1787, making it the oldest existing building in Dubai), this museum offers an excellent introduction to the city's history and traditional way of life. The exhibits include artifacts from the region's archaeological sites, reconstructions of traditional homes, mosques, and souks, and displays showcasing Dubai's rapid development.
  • Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU): Located in a beautifully restored wind tower house, the SMCCU offers cultural meals, heritage tours, and interactive programs designed to help visitors understand Emirati culture, customs, and religion. I participated in a traditional breakfast with a cultural discussion, which was one of the most informative experiences of my trip.
  • Coffee Museum: A small but fascinating museum dedicated to the history and culture of coffee, particularly in the Arab world. The museum displays various brewing methods, antique grinders and pots, and offers tastings of traditional Arabic coffee (gahwa).
  • XVA Gallery and Café: Set in a restored heritage home with beautiful courtyards, this contemporary art gallery showcases works by regional artists. Their café serves delicious Middle Eastern-inspired vegetarian food and is a perfect spot for a peaceful lunch.

Timing Tip

Visit Al Fahidi early in the morning or later in the afternoon to avoid the midday heat and enjoy the beautiful play of light on the ochre-colored buildings. Many galleries and museums are closed on Fridays or have limited hours, so check opening times in advance.

Dubai Creek and Abra Rides

From Al Fahidi, I walked a short distance to Dubai Creek (Khor Dubai), the saltwater creek that historically divided the city into two main sections: Deira and Bur Dubai. The creek was the city's original lifeline, facilitating trade and providing sustenance through fishing and pearl diving.

Today, Dubai Creek remains a bustling waterway lined with dhows (traditional wooden boats) that still transport goods to and from countries around the Persian Gulf, India, and East Africa. Walking along the creek's edge, I was fascinated by the loading and unloading of merchandise—everything from electronics to spices to household goods—a testament to Dubai's enduring role as a trading hub.

One of the highlights of my visit was taking an abra ride across the creek. These traditional wooden water taxis have been ferrying passengers between Deira and Bur Dubai for generations and offer an authentic and incredibly affordable experience (just 1 AED, or about $0.27 USD per ride).

The short journey provided wonderful photo opportunities of both sides of the creek, with their contrasting architecture—heritage buildings on one side and the mixture of old and new commercial structures on the other. The experience of being on the water, with the warm breeze and the sounds of the city surrounding you, offers a perspective of Dubai that can't be gained from land.

Traditional Souks of Deira

After crossing the creek to Deira, I explored the area's famous traditional markets or souks. Unlike the air-conditioned luxury malls of modern Dubai, these historic marketplaces offer a sensory adventure and a glimpse into the city's commercial traditions.

The Gold Souk is perhaps the most famous, featuring window after window of dazzling gold jewelry. Even if you're not planning to purchase anything, the sheer volume of gold on display is a sight to behold. The market is reputed to have some of the best gold prices in the world due to the absence of taxes, and bargaining is expected if you do decide to buy.

Just a short walk from the Gold Souk is the Spice Souk, where the air is filled with the fragrant aromas of countless herbs and spices. Colorful sacks display everything from saffron and sumac to frankincense and exotic dried flowers. Vendors are generally happy to let you smell and sample their wares, and I found this to be a great place to purchase authentic souvenirs like spice mixes, tea blends, and local delicacies.

Nearby, the Perfume Souk offers traditional Arabian fragrances, oud (agarwood), and bakhoor (scented wood chips burned as incense). Many shops can create custom perfume blends or offer alcohol-free alternatives to popular international scents.

Shopping Tip

Bargaining is expected in the souks, so don't accept the first price offered. A good rule of thumb is to counter with about 50-60% of the initial asking price and negotiate from there. Be friendly but firm, and don't be afraid to walk away—often the vendor will call you back with a better price.

Culinary Experiences in Old Dubai

Old Dubai offers some of the most authentic and affordable dining options in the city. During my exploration, I discovered several culinary gems:

Arabian Tea House (formerly Basta Art Café) in Al Fahidi is set in the courtyard of a traditional wind tower house and serves delicious Emirati and Middle Eastern cuisine. Their Arabic breakfast platter and mint lemonade were perfect refreshments during my morning exploration.

In Deira, I visited Al Ustad Special Kabab, a legendary Persian restaurant established in 1978. The walls are covered with photos of celebrities who have dined there, and their succulent kababs lived up to their reputation.

For an immersive dining experience, I booked a cultural meal at the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding. The experience included traditional Emirati dishes like machboos (spiced rice with meat), harees (wheat and meat porridge), and luqaimat (sweet dumplings), all while engaging in an informative Q&A session about local culture and customs.

Near the abra station in Bur Dubai, numerous small restaurants serve authentic Indian, Pakistani, and Middle Eastern food at very reasonable prices. I particularly enjoyed a simple but delicious meal at a local Pakistani restaurant where I was the only tourist among dozens of local workers.

Dubai Creek Heritage and Diving Village

Back on the Bur Dubai side of the creek, I visited the Heritage and Diving Village, a reconstruction of a traditional coastal village that showcases Dubai's maritime history and pearl diving heritage. The site features demonstrations of traditional crafts like weaving, pottery, and metalwork, as well as performances of folk dances and music during certain times.

While somewhat touristy, the village provides valuable insights into Dubai's pre-oil economy and the harsh conditions faced by pearl divers who would spend months at sea, diving to depths of up to 40 meters with just a nose clip and basic equipment.

Textile Souk and Grand Mosque

Also in Bur Dubai is the Textile Souk (also known as the Old Souk), covered with wooden lattice roofing and selling fabrics, traditional clothing, souvenirs, and tailoring services. The souk extends to the waterfront and offers another opportunity to take an abra ride or simply enjoy the view of the creek.

Nearby stands the impressive Grand Mosque, Dubai's largest mosque with the city's tallest minaret (70 meters). While non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque itself, the exterior is worth admiring, particularly when illuminated at night.

Practical Information for Visiting Old Dubai

Getting There and Around:

  • The closest Metro stations are Al Fahidi or Al Ghubaiba on the Green Line.
  • Taxis and ride-sharing services like Uber and Careem can easily reach Old Dubai.
  • Once there, the areas are best explored on foot, with abra rides to cross the creek (1 AED per crossing).
  • For a more extensive creek experience, consider a one-hour dhow cruise (typically around 60-100 AED).

Best Time to Visit:

  • Early morning (8-10 AM) or late afternoon/evening (after 4 PM) are ideal to avoid the midday heat, especially during summer months.
  • The souks are generally most active in the evenings, while museums and cultural attractions are best visited during their morning opening hours.
  • Many shops and attractions have reduced hours or are closed on Fridays, particularly during the morning prayer time.

Dress Code:

While Old Dubai is more traditional than other parts of the city, standard modest tourist attire is acceptable. I recommend clothing that covers shoulders and knees out of respect for local customs, particularly if you plan to visit any religious or cultural sites.

Final Thoughts

Exploring Old Dubai was, for me, the most rewarding part of visiting this multifaceted city. While the modern attractions impress with their scale and luxury, it's in these historic neighborhoods that you can truly connect with Dubai's heritage and understand its extraordinary journey.

The fascinating juxtaposition of traditional wind towers against distant skyscrapers perfectly encapsulates Dubai's story—a city that honors its past while boldly embracing the future. If you're planning a trip to Dubai, I highly recommend dedicating at least a full day to Old Dubai. It offers a cultural depth and authenticity that complements and contextualizes the more famous modern attractions.

Have you visited Old Dubai? What were your favorite discoveries? Share your experiences in the comments below!

Comments (2)

Mohammed Al-Farsi

Mohammed Al-Farsi

August 30, 2023 at 9:15 AM

As an Emirati, I'm always happy to see visitors appreciating our cultural heritage. One additional recommendation I would make is to visit the Al Shindagha Museum which has recently been expanded with several new pavilions focusing on different aspects of Dubai's history and culture. The Perfume House there is particularly interesting as it showcases the importance of fragrance in Arab culture.

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David Rodriguez

David Rodriguez

August 30, 2023 at 2:40 PM

Thank you for your suggestion, Mohammed! I unfortunately missed the Al Shindagha Museum during my visit but have heard wonderful things about it. The Perfume House sounds particularly fascinating - the art of perfumery is such an important part of Gulf culture that deserves more recognition. I'll definitely include it on my itinerary for my next trip to Dubai.

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Lisa Wong

Lisa Wong

September 3, 2023 at 11:20 AM

I visited Old Dubai last year and absolutely loved it! I would add that the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding offers excellent guided walking tours of Al Fahidi that provide so much historical context and access to areas you might miss on your own. Also, for those interested in photography, the area around Dubai Creek at sunset offers amazing lighting and reflections on the water.

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